The Ghan: What It’s Like, Where It Goes and Is It Worth It?

TL;DR: The Ghan is one of the world’s great train trips, crossing the middle of Australia between Adelaide and Darwin over four days and three nights. Everything is included: your cabin, meals, drinks and guided stops along the way. It isn’t cheap, with fares starting from around $2,900 per person, but if you’d like the outback to be the holiday rather than the bit in between, it’s hard to beat. Add a few days at either end and you can see Kakadu, Uluru or the Barossa too.

You wake up, slide open the blind, and the whole world outside your window has turned red. There isn’t a town or a car in sight, only desert running all the way to the horizon. Someone brings you a coffee, and that first sip tastes better with a view like this. Lunch is a long, slow affair with a glass of South Australian wine. And by tomorrow, the view will have changed all over again.

That’s the Ghan in a nutshell. You sit back and watch the country unfold, one kilometre at a time. Here’s what the trip is like, where it goes, what it costs and how to fit it into a bigger adventure.

What Is the Ghan?

The Ghan is a luxury passenger train that runs right through the centre of Australia, linking Adelaide in the south with Darwin in the tropical north. It covers almost 3,000 kilometres, from the southern coast right up to the Timor Sea.

The name comes with a good yarn. It honours the Afghan cameleers who came to Australia in the 1800s and carried supplies across the outback, long before there was a railway to do the job. The line reached Alice Springs in 1929, but Darwin had to wait until 2004 for the first train to roll into town.

Today the Ghan is run by Journey Beyond, and it’s an all-inclusive experience, with private cabins rather than seats. So you won’t be fighting anyone for the armrest.

Where Does the Ghan Go?

The Ghan runs between Adelaide and Darwin, and you’ve got two main ways to ride it.

The Ghan runs north from Adelaide to Darwin. Along the way you’ll head out through South Australia’s wine country and the rugged Flinders Ranges, then up through the outback to Alice Springs, before finishing in Katherine and Darwin.

The Ghan Expedition runs the other way, south from Darwin to Adelaide. It’s the one for real outback lovers, with a full day in the opal-mining town of Coober Pedy, where people live, shop and even go to church underground. Yes, really.

Both trips take four days and three nights.

What happens at the stops?

The train stops for hours at a time, and you hop off to explore on included guided experiences. We reckon it’s the best bit. Depending on your trip, that might mean:

• Cruising through the towering sandstone walls of Nitmiluk (Katherine) Gorge
• Walking through the gaps and gorges of the West MacDonnell Ranges near Alice Springs
• Dinner under the stars at the old Alice Springs Telegraph Station
• Exploring underground homes and opal mines at Coober Pedy
• Taking in the big, ancient Flinders Ranges

Then it’s back on board for dinner, a nightcap and another night rolling gently through the dark.

What’s It Like on Board?

Think of it as a moving boutique hotel. There are two levels of service, Gold and Platinum.

Gold is the one most people book. Your cabin is compact but clever: a comfy lounge seat and big window by day, then made up into beds while you’re at dinner. Most Gold cabins have their own little bathroom.

Platinum is the splurge. The cabins are roomier, the bathrooms bigger, and you’ll have your own restaurant and lounge.

Whichever you choose, the days settle into a lovely rhythm. Brekkie as the sun comes up over the desert. A guided excursion. A long lunch. A drink in the lounge car as the sky turns pink. It’s the kind of trip where you finally finish that book you packed. Or at least get past chapter two.

How Much Does the Ghan Cost?

For 2027, fares start from around $2,900 per person for a single cabin in Gold, with twin share Gold cabins and Platinum costing more. We’ll be upfront, it’s a big-ticket holiday. The Expedition is a little pricier again.

The good news? Almost everything is included once you’re on board. Your cabin, all your meals, drinks (yes, the wine too) and the off-train excursions are covered. What you’ll need to sort yourself are flights to the start, flights home from the end, and any nights in town before or after.

A couple of money-saving tips:

• Book early. The cheapest fares usually go to people who book at least six months ahead
• Travel in the shoulder season. March and November are generally cheaper than the peak dry-season months

When Is the Best Time to Ride the Ghan?

April to October is the most popular time to ride. The Ghan runs from about March to November, and takes a break during the height of the tropical wet season.

That’s the dry season in the Top End, with blue skies, cooler nights and the waterfalls in Kakadu and Litchfield open to visit. It’s also when trains book out first, so plan ahead if you’ve got your heart set on those months.

March and November are quieter and cheaper, though you’ll feel the heat up north.

Is the Ghan Worth It?

That depends on what kind of holiday you’re after.

You’ll love the Ghan if the slow pace is the whole point. If the idea of watching the outback roll by, glass in hand, with every meal and excursion sorted, sounds like heaven, this is your trip. There’s something special about feeling the true size of Australia, rather than flying over it in a few hours.

It might not be for you if you’re short on time, or you’d rather spend your budget at the destinations themselves. Adelaide to Darwin is only about a four-hour flight. For the price of a Ghan fare, you could fly and then spend several days exploring Kakadu or Uluru with a guide.

Can’t decide? No worries. Plenty of travellers do a bit of both. They ride the Ghan one way, fly the other, and add a few days of touring at each end.

When Does the Ghan Arrive and Leave?

In short, the Ghan leaves Adelaide at 3pm and the Expedition pulls into Adelaide at 9am. It makes a big difference to planning your days either side, so here’s the 2027 timetable, roughly:

So what does that mean for you?

• Heading north, you’ve got a free morning in Adelaide before you board, so there’s time for a wander around the city or a lazy breakfast
• You’ll reach Darwin in the late afternoon or evening, so plan your sightseeing from the next morning
• Heading south on the Expedition, give yourself at least one full day in Darwin beforehand
• You’ll roll into Adelaide first thing in the morning, which leaves the whole day free to explore

Times can change from season to season, so always check the current timetable when you book.

How Do You Make the Most of the Ghan?

Treat the train as the centrepiece of your trip, and add a few days on either side. The Ghan stops long enough to give you a taste of the outback, but the places it passes through deserve more than a few hours.

Before or after Darwin

Darwin is the gateway to the Top End, and some of Australia’s most spectacular country is right on its doorstep. Kakadu National Park is about three hours away, with ancient rock art, wetlands and crocodile-filled rivers (best admired from a safe distance). Only got a morning? Explore the city itself, from the waterfront to the museum’s moving Cyclone Tracy exhibition.

Breaking the trip at Alice Springs

Uluru is still about 450 km from Alice Springs, so it isn’t a quick side trip. But if you’ve got a few spare days, it’s worth every kilometre. Walk between the domes of Kata Tjuta, watch Uluru change colour at sunset, and tackle the Kings Canyon Rim Walk if you’re up for it. Your legs might grumble, but you won’t regret it.

Before or after Adelaide

Adelaide is a lovely place to start or finish. Spend a morning wandering North Terrace and the Botanic Garden, or head an hour north to the Barossa Valley for a day of cellar doors. It’s a much gentler start than rushing to the station off a morning flight.

Before You Go

The Ghan is a once-in-a-lifetime way to cross Australia, and the places at either end deserve a little time of their own. If you’re adding a few days in Darwin, Alice Springs or Adelaide, our tours to Kakadu, Uluru and the Barossa are an easy way to see more without hiring a car. Happy travels, and enjoy every kilometre!

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does the Ghan take from Adelaide to Darwin?

Four days and three nights, whether you travel Adelaide to Darwin on the Ghan or Darwin to Adelaide on the Ghan Expedition.

How much does the Ghan cost?

For 2027, fares start from around $2,900 per person for a single Gold cabin. Twin share, Platinum and the Expedition cost more. Booking early is usually the best way to save.

What is included in a Ghan ticket?

Your cabin, all meals, drinks including wine, and the guided off-train experiences. Flights to the start and home from the end aren’t included.

What is the difference between Gold and Platinum on the Ghan?

Platinum cabins are bigger, with larger bathrooms and their own restaurant and lounge. Gold cabins are more compact, converting from a lounge by day into beds at night. Both include meals, drinks and excursions.

Where does the Ghan stop?

It always stops at Alice Springs and Katherine. The Ghan also visits South Australia’s wine country and the Flinders Ranges, while the Expedition stops at Coober Pedy.

When is the best time to ride the Ghan?

April to October, when the Top End is in its dry season. March and November are quieter and cheaper.

Is the Ghan worth the money?

If you’d like the trip across the outback to be the holiday, yes. If you’d rather have more time at places like Kakadu or Uluru, flying and adding guided tours can stretch your budget further.